Saturday, February 7, 2009

Day 34 – Arica, Chile

Drink of the Day – Green Iguana

There may not be enough space to describe and show what a wonderful day this was. The ship arrived before sunrise in Arica, Chile. Arica is located in the far north region of Chile only miles from the Peruvian and Bolivian borders. It is also located in the Atacama Desert.



We decided the day before to take one of the ship’s tours to the Chilean Altiplano and Lauca National Park. Our destination was 15,400 feet up in the Andes Mountains. The tour was ten hours and left at 7:30 am. This meant we were up by 5:30 to get ready, eat, and be ready to leave the ship at 7:00. Gasp!

The tour group filled three, un-air conditioned buses with a fourth bus following as a spare. (That was the first clue that this may be an adventure). Due to a sea pass card problem (Linda and Jane’s cards have had a mixed identity problem the entire trip) it took us a few minutes to get off the ship meaning that we had front row seats on the bus. Normally this would be a good thing, but suffice it to say, what you don’t see out the front of the bus is sometimes easier on the nerves.

The trip began with a ride through the Lluta Valley where we traveled past miles of geolglyphs left by an ancient culture. No one is certain what they actually mean although here are many theories.



Our first stop was the town of Poconchile to take pictures and visit local road-side vendors. We then proceeded to Inglesia de San Marco to visit a church and nearby cemetery.






As we continued to climb along narrow switchback roads we watched the scenery change from barren desert to desert land with brush like plants and candelabra cacti. In the midst of desert mountains there were green valleys with working farms below. The contrast, even with pictures is impossible to convey.





Just after our first stop we were met by the police. Our tour guide told us not to worry because this was a good thing. Apparently we need a police escort the rest of the way up through the mountains. This was the second clue that this was going to be an adventure like no other. He would drive ahead of us to scout out the road since most of the time we could not see past the sharp curves. When we came up behind trucks, mostly carrying goods to Bolivia, he would turn on his siren and the trucks would pull over to allow us to pass.




Shortly after meeting up with our escort we stopped at the Restaurante Zapahuira for a bathroom break and to have a cup of tea with some coca leaves in it to help us with altitude sickness. The restaurant was located at 10,000 feet above sea level. The bathrooms were a tad primitive. Because they buy water by the hour you can never put paper in the toilets and can’t always flush. It is always best to be first in line.


Once back on the road our little caravan continued to climb past a continuingly changing landscape. Soon we were able to see the snowcapped mountains that make up the Andes. We started to see wildlife that lives only at specific altitudes. We did see alpaca and llamas throughout the drive. Guanacos, which look like a cross between a deer and a camel, seemed to live around 12,000 feet up. Occasionally we saw chinchillas sleeping in shaded areas in the rocks.

We stopped again in a small village to use restrooms, look at and purchase local wares, and take pictures. At this point the altitude was starting to become noticeably thinner. Some of us felt a bit lightheaded after walking or moving too quickly. It wasn’t too bad for most of us although one gentleman on the bus behind us passed out and needed oxygen.

Finally, we reached Lauca National Park in the village of Parinacota. We were now at over 15,000 feet. It was spectacular. As we exited the buses we were all drawn to the view of a large lake at the base of a snowcapped mountain. The land surrounding the lake was covered with short, moss like vegetation. A variety of birds live in and around the park. We were especially enamored by the flamingos.


We also had a chance to visit an open air market while we were visiting Lauca National Park. The items make from Alpaca wool were lovely and very reasonably priced. Although never passing up a chance to shop, we did have to get back on the bus and sit. At 15,000 feet it was very difficult to walk around or do anything requiring energy.



We had one last stop on our journey. This was to a 17th century church. As we left the bus to go look at the church Linda and Jane both had to stop to rest. It became apparent that neither one would be able to make the walk to the church for the brief tour. Deedee was the lone member of our group to go in. God love her.



The ride down from the mountains was rather uncomfortable for the few 4 or 5 thousand feet. The combination of altitude sickness and the continuous zig-zagging down bumpy roads in a warm bus was not easy on our heads or stomachs. Not one person was talking on the bus. We did make a pit stop at the Restaurante Zapahuira. The fresh air and chance to stand up seemed to help.

We soon reached the port city of Arica and the ship at 6:00 pm, about ten minutes late. We drove past breaches filled with tents and autos. According to our guide, families move to the beach for three months during the summer. They actually bring their household with including refrigerators and microwaves. The government supplies water and electricity.


Thankfully the ship waited for us, as well as another tour that followed us in. As we began to pull away from the pier we could see jellyfish floating about in the water. Very neat.




Thank goodness Saturday is a sea day.

2 comments:

  1. Once again your remarkable pictures and descriptions make me feel as if I were right there with you. Although I did not join you on the bathroom breaks!

    Thanks for allowing me to come along with you!

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  2. Haven't been to that altitude, but I do remember what it feels like at about 12,000 feet. so glad all of you survived. I bet that ship looked good to all , waiting in the harbor.

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